Showing posts with label Colombia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Colombia. Show all posts

Thursday, May 21, 2020

Museo de Trajes, Bogata: Traditional Clothing

The Museo de Trajes or Museum of Costume in Bogata, Colombia was a great visit for a fiber  enthusiast like me.  I was lucky to see the exhibits  during a visit in 2017.

The posters (in Spanish of course) gave explanations of the goal of the museum, which is part of the  University of America.  Here is the essence of the posters in italics

The museum was founded in 1975 by the anthropologist Edith Himenez de Munoz. It is a place where costume and dress come together with consideration of the past, present, and future of costume. Pre-Hispanic dress and the European costume arrived with the Spaniards, and the resulting dress represents the mixing during the colonial times of indigenous peoples, Spaniards, and African population.
Also presented is the meeting of textiles traditions and crafts related to dress making, such as looms and various techniques present in America and others in Europe.





The Spanish explored Colombia in 1500 and began settlements early in that century, beginning with Santa Marta, Cartagena, what is now Sante Fe, and Cali.




The Spaniards found a textile industry in full development in various regions of the Colombian territory. During the colonial period they promoted it, but also quickly imported their technology: the sheep, the winch(?), and the treadle loom, which allows production of fabrics of greater length than the indigenous frame looms. They also introduced shearing tools for sheep, and the fulling units where fibers were washed, carding tools, and spinning tools. They also took advantage of textile fibers (of the region) i.e. American fibers and the craftsmanship of the natives to meet their needs; they introduced among others the industry of espadrilles, "pieces of the mounts" (possible reins), sieves, canvas, and sacks. Since the end of the 16th century, in the Cundiboyacense highlands and the Narino sierra, the indigenous peoples were forced to weave woolen cloths. In Santander the artisans, natives, adapted the European tools to the cotton fabric and later to work with fique (sisal)

another poster noted that

The clothing speaks of the colonial regime, and ethnic and cultural mixing of the population. The Spanish crown appointed to its representative exclusive garments which were symbols of power. for whites, mestizos, black slaves, and natives. Many garments worn by the mestizos were simplified versions of the Spanish costume of the 16th and 17th centuries. These were made from natural materials: embroidered shirts, skirts, knee pants, and hats of vegetable fiber or felted wool and espadrilles. Other items like the ruanas, the muleteer (shoes of rope?), and the poncho, were closer to the pre-hispanic textile traditions. Wardrobes were created in the various geologic regions and adapted to environmental conditions. Traditional costumes in the museum were typical in Colombia up until 150 years ago, when development of roads plus industrialization allowed rural areas to be connected to national markets.

Here are samples of clothing from the exhibits, beginning with earlier indigenous costume. Photos were permitted, but of course were through glass.














Note the molas used in costumes below; molas are thought of as Panamanian but are also made in Colombis







It's interesting to note that the embroidered blouses,  were a derivation of the "chemise" brought by the Europeans. I am fond of these garments that remind me of the embroidered "peasant" smocks that I wore in the 70's and 80's, a modern day garment-descendent









Saturday, October 26, 2019

Colombian Spindle Whorls

In 2017 I went to Bogata Colombia to visit friends. A trip to the Museo del Oro, the Museum of Gold, revealed many treasures. Artists have been working in gold in Colombia for 2500 years. 





Equally as enchanting to me were the ancients spindle whorls, alas not gold.  One of the explanations hinted that the whorls were cast using a lost wax technique, but they look like engraved ceramic to me. If you know, please get in touch!  The display noted that both sisal (from the agave) and cotton were spun and used to make fabrics and functional objects, although I learned that fique, which is similar to sisal, was and still is cultivated to spin a strong fiber twine.







Sunday, June 10, 2018

Llanas Casa Rosada in Bogota

Naturally, in visiting Bogata in January I needed to find what might be a "local yarn store." Celia and I tramped through downtown Bogata and off of Septima, the major city thoroughfare, we found this lovely spot,  Llanas Casa Rosada

Here I am with my spoils...actually there was another bag as well...







Cotton yarns



Disregard the sign, these are dyed wool rovings



cotton fibers



beautiful woven tapestries



fique (sissal) fibers here mixed with cotton




 and these...squirrel tails; something I've never seen before in a yarn store, although this was really a fiber store




I loved this creative use of a tire rim to make a yarn winder...


 There was natural sheeps wool as well, I asked what kind of sheep, the shop owner whose English was limited joked and said "Colombian sheep," but here is a link for more information.

http://www.uncovercolombia.com/en/item/traveller-s-guide-towns-boyaca-colombia where the sheep are


Monday, January 22, 2018

Arhuacu and Wayuu Mochilas and a bit on how to crochet your own.

I am always lucky when a vacation includes some fiber adventures. My first day visiting with my good friend Celia in Bogata, Colombia included a workshop for two on how to crochet a mochila, or traditional shoulder bag, which have a woven strap.  The word translates as "backpack" but they only have one strap. Men and women both use mochilas.

There are basically two types...one done by the Arhuaco, and one by the Wayuu.   From what I have researched, I learned that Catholic nuns taught the indigenous peoples how to crochet, and it remains a very popular hand craft, much more than knitting from what I observed.

Below is a map of northern Colombia showing where the two groups originate from



The Arhuaca people live near the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. They crochet beautiful bags from fique, which is a plant fiber derived from the fique plant that lives in Colombia, Ecuador and Peru; in the US we call it sisal.  Here are some bags that I saw in a market; the bottom two rows are natural colored Arhuaca mochilas. Here is some more info from wikipedia. These mochilas may also be cotton or wool.




The other sort of mochila is done by the Wayuu, who originate in the Guajira Peninsula in the North of Colombia and northwest Venezuela.

These some photos are Wayuu mochilas from the Museo de Trajes Regionale in Bogata




These mochilas are obviously more colorful and often seen with contemporary themes.  Patterning can also resemble those of traditional molas, (more on molas in a future post).

So how are these made? Well, first one finds a teacher with exacting standards. For us, this is Celia's friend Elisa.


 If you want some fun, try learning to do this with someone whose Engish is nonexistant (as is my Spanish for something this complicated).  Luckily, we were in a cafe where a friendly English translator could be found... that would be Celia's daughter Whitney, who runs the bakery/cafe.

We began with a trip to the ribbon store, which carries cotton crochet yarn, similar to Aunt Lydia's only with much more twist. A no 4 crochet hook is also required, I think this is the US sizing.



Then, after climbing the hill back to El Nido (and working to keep up with Celia and Elisa), Elisa instructed us to crochet a 6 stitch chain, and connect it, then single crochet 10 stitches into the loop. Did I mention that this is all single crochet? Continue crocheting in a spiral, Elisa had us do one SC into one stitch then 2 into the next.

I have actually worked on crocheting something round in the last couple months. (This). The increase ratio is different from Elisa's. With my mochila,  however, I experienced the potato chip phenomenon (too many stitches so it's not flat) as there were too many increases, so of course Elisa had me pull some out and reduce my increase ratio.

I did not get too far, but I think that the next step is to stop increasing. Then the hard part starts...crocheting in the pattern. I'll see where this goes! It's a bit potato-chippy so far