Friday, September 25, 2015

FO: Sacre Coeur

I finished Sacre Coeur and I may have a new shawl model, my friend Cheryl

as well as a new favorite designer,  Nim Teasdale. This is a free pattern

I used one strand of Malabrigo Lace, which I thought might be too mushy-felty so I combined it with a strand of Habu silk stainless in lighter pink, and of course added the beads per the pattern.  This was enjoyable to knit and I would recommend the pattern, which is a crescent shaped, top down, modular pattern. Be sure to peruse Nim's other patterns, very lovely ...

Monday, September 7, 2015

Bunny Planet...Yep, I did it

Why yes, I've gone and done it. There are bunnies in the house.

I looked back at Ravelry; I have been a member of the Angora Bunny group since 2009 meaning that I was thinking about it even before the minor commitment of even joining the group!

So my friend new friend and farmer Heidi brought over 6 bunnies one sunday last month. My neice was pretty excited too. Eventually she and I decided on two sisters,  white and reddish/fawn.

Preparation/ cage assembly:

Names: Rosa and Blanca.

Both cats and bunnies are nonplussed with each other. Here, Fiona climbs over Blanca. 

Handfeeding is recommended by my local animal training/operant conditioning expert, (that would be Malmaid), to make friends. 

Thus far I have been combing them out to get fur and there has been a small amount of trimming. They are living in my kitchen (yes I know that might be yucky) so there is a lot of floor mopping going on.  I live somewhere HOT.  But I LOVE having them in the kitchen where we can talk.  They are much for comfortable / less nervous now and approach me for treats when I walk in the kitchen.  They will be out on my porch when the weather here in SC cools.  It may be a while till I have enough to spin!

And...yes, it's Labor Day.  Just when I feel the world is going to hell in a handbasket, I see an image like this and see how far we've come (compare this little one's expression with my niece's above).  This image was taken in Newberry, SC 100 years ago.  Thank you to Lewis Hine for using photography to change our world for the better.

Monday, August 24, 2015

Felting and Eco Dyeing Chez Margo

My dear friend Margo over at HermajestyMargo lives nearby.  Her blog is at HermajestyMargo. She does beautiful work. She invited myself and several other friends for a day of felting and ecodyeing. Here are some photos:

the upstairss studio

outdoor dye shed

(It's a bullet steamer)

Margo has two books on felting on Amazon!

Sunday, August 16, 2015

My old-new Louet S 15

I was lucky; I "came into" a new wheel. I knew someone who new someone who was getting rid of her Mom's fiber equipment. I visited and purchased...

Louet drum carder

Something with alot of 2nd cuts but horribly soft...cormo?

Clemes and Clemes carders

I am the proud new owner of a Louet S 15 wheel, no idea of the date. This is a bobbin lead spinning wheel.  According to Babe's Fiber Garden,  

If whorl is rigidly connected to bobbin, it's bobbin lead wheel. In this case a brake is applied to flyer whorl and this arrangement is called Irish, or German tension. Bobbin lead wheels are better suited for spinning heavier weight yarns, they usually have quite powerful take up, and fine adjustments are somehow tricky. As you spin, you hold yarn under tension and bobbin and flyer rotate together. As soon as you relax your tension and let yarn go, flyer stalls because of the brake, and bobbin continues to rotate, and yarn gets wound on the bobbin.

If whorl is rigidly connected to flyer it is flyer lead wheel, then the brake is applied to bobbin whorl and it's called Scotch tension (Babe calls it wonder tension). These wheels are very versatile, you can spin any weight of yarn on Scotch tension wheel; as wheel size and orifice size would allow. As long as you hold yarn under tension, flyer and bobbin rotate in sync. As soon as tension is released, bobbin slows down and flyer continues to rotate at the same speed, thus the yarn gets wound on the bobbin. Scotch tension is very sensitive and it allows you to spin very fine yarn on Scotch tension, or flyer lead wheels.

Double drive is a differential speed arrangement. Double drive wheel has drive band go twice around wheel - one time around the flyer whorl and second time around the bobbin whorl. This arrangement causes the flyer and bobbin to rotate at different speed all the time (they have to be different diameter, or there will be no take up) and provides very steady take up. Many people find double drive wheel tricky to handle and these are definitely more difficult to build.

Yes, it's true, I should have learned all this some years ago!  OK, so apparently I have a very different wheel than my Ashford...can't wait to try it, perhaps it will be good for plying!  I have a "footman replacement kit" ready to go and then I may be in business.  I later figured out that the yarn winder mounts on top of the wheel...clever...

Friday, July 24, 2015

Old and New

There is a family house in longer owned by my family. However we may be able to visit at some point...but that's another story.

The house is in Northfield Falls.  I spent summers there as a child. When my Dad sold the house which is far from where we all live in South Carolina now, he and Mom removed a lot of the furniture. One thing removed was a rocker.

My Grandma Helen, when she was alive, worked at a consignment shop called "The Red Mitten" in Northfield. There was a healthy respect in the community for old and handmade items.  I do not believe that the shop is still there. However, a long time ago, my Grandmother picked up a half done needlepoint canvas there. I was much younger and doing needlepoint at the time. Hating to see an abandoned project, I finished it, Mom had it stitched into a cushion, and back to Grandma it went.

Fast forward a's Kaffe Fassett era. And the entree of Kaffe's Persian Poppies. I still love them.

Forward a bit more...the year I learned to spin I bought some orange-yellow blend merino roving and spun it into a worsted weight kinda double. It hung around and I tried it out for 6-7 projects, never quite working.  Finally I paired it, just this year, with some green yarn using Kaffe's Persian Poppies theme. It just worked.  I thought that I was doing a little afgha in the round. Then it looked just perfectly sized for a child's sweater.

I re knit it 3 times, trying to fit it to  my niece. When I finally held it up to the child, it was so too small.  Three times...not meant to be. I stopped but did not frog. I held it up to the rocker....perfect for the back with the needlepoint cushion on the seat....perfection plus several touch points in my history!

Saturday, June 27, 2015

Carolina Bell pattern

I am happy today to celebrate my wonderful state of South Carolina, and the wonderful diversity here, not the least of which is expressed in alpaca genetics!

My brother lives near an alpaca farm in upstate SC, in Inman. When I visited two years ago I was happy to discover that the owner had a shop. The shop was HUGE with a vast supply of commercial yarn, but what I zoomed in on was the yarn from their own alpacas.  Here is the creative result:

Carolina Bell Shawlette

Have you found yourself in a yarn store picking up…say 3 skeins of yarn, one of a contrasting color to the other two, that you thought were beautiful with no plan in mind?  Well…here’s the plan…

This is a shawlette with vertical garter stripes and a lace border.  My finished shawlette is 60 inches in width and in 13 inches in length at the longest point.

Yarn Requirements: 3 skeins of yarn, two of the same color (color A), and one of a second color (color B). I used 3 skeins of alpaca from a local (in state) alpaca farm.  For me, this was Northwoods Farm in Inman, SC.  I had 2 skeins of 183 yards each in Carolina Bell (neutral)  and 1 skein from Guyson,  210 yards(chocolate brown).  Each skein was 4 ounces.

I used half of color B for half the striped section of the shawl.

My shawlette is very heavy and warm in the yarn I used, however you could use a lighter weight yarn and looser stitch at the same gauge and produce a lighter, more summery shawlette.

Gauge: Knit a gauge swatch with your yarn and find a fabric drape using garter stitch with the size needle that pleases you.  My gauge in garter stitch for the body of the shawl is 5 stitches per inch. I used a size 3 circular needle. Be warned however: if you stray from my yardage, gauge, and yarn halving technique, you may need more or less yarn, so be sure to use the technique here:

Yarn halving technique for Color B: take your skein of color B.  You can do this by weighing it and wind two balls of half the whole weight. If you have a yarn measuring tool, you can use that.  


Cast on 10 stitches in color A.

1)   Knit 1 row Color A
2)   Knit 1 row Color A
3)   Knit 1 row Color B
4)   With color B, k1, increase 1 by loop method, finish row in knit.

Continue in this way until you have 52 stitches. Continue knitting straight: 2 rows color A and 2 rows color B. When you have used half of color B, or perhaps a little less to be on the safe side, begin decreasing:

1)   Knit 1 row Color A
2)   Knit 1 row Color A
3)   Knit 1 row Color B
4)   With Color B, decrease one stitch by psso method (slip one, knit one, passed slipped stitch over knitted stitch) and finish row with Color B.

When you have returned to 10 stitches on the needle, bind off loosely.

Lace border:  at this point you should have a serious amount of Color A left for the lace border, which is done in garter lace.  Proceed with the lace border this way:

 With the shawl on your left, right side up and lower edge in your lap, with the same size needle that you used for the body of the shawl:  Cast on 4 stitches onto left needle.

Row 1: S1, k1, yo, k1, pickup stitch from in between the garter ribs, knit that stitch together with the 5th cast on stitch. With all odd rows, continue picking up a stitch between knit “ribs”  and knitting 2 together for the final stitch.

Row 2 and all even rows through row 16: turn and knit.

Row 3: S1, k1, yo, k2, knit last stitch together with stitch picked up from shawl border.

Row 5: S1, k1, yo, k3, knit last stitch together with stitch picked up from shawl border.

Row 7: S1, k1, yo, k4, knit last stitch together with stitch picked up from shawl border.

Row 9: S1, k2 tog, yo, k2 tog, k2, knit last stitch together with stitch picked up from shawl border.

Row 11: S1, k2 tog, yo, k2 tog, k1, knit last stitch together with stitch picked up from shawl border.

Row 13: S1, k2tog, yo, k2tog, knit last stitch together with stitch picked up from shawl border

Row 15: S1, k2tog, k1, knit last stitch together with stitch picked up from shawl border.

Here is a graph if you prefer:

You may need to “fudge” a bit to add or subtract stitches that you pick up to end the lace at the end of the shawl.

Saturday, June 20, 2015

Vikings in the Attic

So some years ago I read a book called  Confederates in the Attic

I pretty much came up with the idea that these reenactor people, while yes they are having fun, learning history, and channeling their ancestors, are by and large a  wee bit off.  (The book however is great and I recommend it). 

Recently however I found this video which helped to explain another aspect of why one might wish to be a reenactor...and a Viking.  Self realization without the violance...   

Actually the preceding video popped up when I was watching   Lois Swales's videos on youtube

I have been reading Helene's blog for a long time...she and her family do Viking Reenacting in Norway

Of course, I am interested in how fibers were made into yarn and fabric before the Industrial Revolution  so I'm off to find a Viking Spindle on Etsy, perhaps here