Wednesday, September 13, 2017

Biltmore Industries: Preservation of Handspinning and Weaving in Appalachia

I was lucky to visit Asheville during Labor Day weekend this year, and managed to find myself near the Grove Park Inn, now overtaken by big business (that would be Omni Hotels).

While there, I visited the museum dedicated to Biltmore Industries, a concern that produced handwoven fabrics circa 1905 until as late as 1981.  Why produce handwovens at that time, well past the textile industrial revolution?

Perhaps the founders were worried about the loss of skills for hand produced materials at the turn of the last century. However we do know that hand production of yarn and fabrics continued well into the 20th century, as a necessity for many people.   John C. Campell, an educator, surveyed the extreme poverty in the southern Appalachians prior to his death in 1919, from a cart that served as a "mobile home." His wife Olive Dame later founded John C. Campbell Folkschool, mentioned below.

The founders may have been influenced by the Arts and Crafts Movement, flourishing in England and the US between 1880 and 1920. (The influence of which is seen in the signage and furniture at Biltmore Estate).

Western North Carolina  and Appalachia hold hand crafting and artisan efforts in high regard, as seen in the Craft Schools founded at the beginning of the last century and still flourishing in the area (John C Campbell, Arrowmont, and Penland).

In 1905 Edith VanderBilt founded Biltmore Industries to "bring back" hand production of wool fabrics.

It was a joy to view this small museum.   If you have difficulty reading through my silhouette, this first sign reads

"America’s heritage of handwork, more than two centuries old, still thrives today within the Southern Appalachian Mountains. In recent years, however, thisz heritage has been influenced considerably by forces of modernism such as industrialization, increased travel, and a growing influx of new residents from all parts of the United States.
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Change has come to the mountains to stay, but the Southern Appalachian region still remains the nation’s principal stronghold of traditional handcrafts. The purpose of the North Carolina Homespun Museum is:

1.     To depict the history of Biltmore Industries, founded on the Biltmore Estate by r.s George W. Vanderbilt in 1901 and moved to it’s present site by Fred Seeley, Sr., in 1917.
2.     To exhibit outstanding examples of handwork, primarily by North Carolina natives."


















This bit was lovely: in 2003 a woman returned a suit for benefit of the museum:





According to this nice blog post, people would go and purchase their wool handspun at the shop, then take it to Pack Square in downtown Asheville to a tailor to be made into bespoke clothing.

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